Now that we have finished cruising along the Southern coast we plan to
head north again. As we near the big smoke of Reykjavik we decide to do “a
drive through.” We did spend a lot of time here on our last trip. It is another
glorious day as we head through the city. We recognize lots of buildings, including
the lovely Opera House but find lots of new highrise. We move away from the
city and on to Pingeveller National Park – the area that plays a huge part in
Iceland’s history as the first Parliament was located here and this is where
the teutonic plates are pulling apart ever so slowly. And it is here we find
the tourists, bus loads of them as a cruise ship is in port. We do a quick
wander through as we have previously visited, before heading to Laugarvatn
campground for the night. There are hot pools nearby but at $65 each we decide
it’s not for us!
In the morning we hit our next F road, the F388. It heads from near
Langarvatn directly north towards the Langjokull icecap. Immediately we head
straight uphill on a breathtaking ride up the mountains. The track is rough and
one lane only. Glad we don’t meet any oncoming traffic. Over the top we wind
our way through lava fields and skirt mountains before crossing huge sandy
expanses. We can see the huge icecap glimmering in the distance. At the end of
the road we meet the F338 that follows massive pylons heading east/west. We
head west. After slowly navigating countless rocks and bumps we reach the 550,
a bigger gravel road that will take us north passing more of the icecap. By now
the weather has turned and it is gray and chilly with a sharp wind. We are
looking out for a spot to camp so head up a sidetrack that goes right up to the
icecap. The signs say Base Camp, but we are turned away. It isn’t a camp and they
send us on to Husafell, which is a lovely farm that has been turned into Hotel/
campground.
Before we continue onto our next F road we detour out to see
Hraunfossar, a very pretty waterfall that comes straight out of a lava cushion.
Bonus the carpark is free. Then on to the F578 northwards, but before long we
stop again. This time at the lava caves at Surtshellir. A few have sunk forming
massive rocky sinkholes. As we move on the traffic thins out as we cross miles
of craggy lava fields. After these the narrow track has sunk below the fields
of moss and is just wide enough for us to squeeze through. It is a definite
bonus not to meet any oncoming vehicles. When we spy a shelter in the distance
we decide to pull over there for the night. We have a stunning view across
fields of moss, shimmering lakes and the glistening white icecap. It’s a pity
it is too cold to sit outside for very long.
Wake to another glorious day and continue our drive along the narrow
track, nearly touching each side. Later
we reach a huge wetland area where the track becomes a causeway. There is nowhere
to stop for coffee. Finally, we reach farming land and find a spot to pull over.
The paddock beside us is full of horses who meander over to see us. They really
want something to do. We finally reach the end of our F road on the northern
coast at Midfjordur and decide to drive around the Vatnsnes peninsula. It is a
narrow gravel road and we have found the tourists again. Nowhere to pull over
for lunch so we pull into the pay carpark ($12) for a big seastack. It is not
all that exciting but there are heaps of tourists looking at it. As we continue
around the peninsula we spy more paid parking for walks to see the seals. We
carry on and can spy seals all along the coast, just lazing away near the rocky
coves. Who needs to pay for a carpark! Much later we pull over for the night on
the side of another fjord (Hrutafjordur) at the tiny town of Bordeyri. It
consists of a row of scruffy old houses on a little peninsula jutting out into
the fjord. We can camp right beside the water. Such a pretty spot
We are now officially in the Westfjords and will spend the next week
exploring them.
