Global Roamer 2

Thursday, September 3, 2026

FABULOUS F ROADS

Miles of crazy driving through magic eerier lunar landscapes at we follow the F26 south. In the distance we can see the mighty icecap of Vatnajokull and the smaller one of Hofsjokull. Much later we turn off on a smaller F road to head to the camping at Laugafell. The attraction here is the hot pools where we spend a few hours soaking. In the morning we wake to a cold miserable day. When rain sets in we decide to wait it out. We even venture to the hot pools in the icy wind but by lunchtime we are bored. Fortunately, our Aussie friends arrive so we spend a few hours chatting. By 4pm we head off. The sun is trying to peek out. We head back to the F26 and now the views are magic. The smaller icecap of Tungnafelljokull is stunning. We decide to skirt around it while the views are awesome until we come to a large rushing river where we decide to turn around. But there is nowhere to turn so John plunges straight into the river (If I had known I would have jumped out for photos), turn on the other side and plunge through the river again. Crazy! Then continue our drive south. There is a National Park campground at Niyidalur we are heading for. But first we reach a huge braided river and need to look for markers as we cross nearly a kilometre of waterways. When we pull into camp we discover our front no plate has gone! John suggests going back to look for it, but it will be long gone!

It’s another chilly night and again gray and miserable in the morning. This time we head off anyway, but fortunately it soon clears making everything look so much better. There are a few small river crossings but nothing like yesterday’s ones! And bonus, very little traffic, only a huge group of walkers. They must be crazy to hike for miles along this barren stretch of road! Much later the road improves and we find a huge dam and power station. They have left Sigoldufoss/waterfall untouched so we can admire it. It is here we turn off the F26 onto the F208 (a route we tried to drive 10 years ago, but it was still closed with snow). It is obviously a popular area because here we find the rental cars. We can see why – the scenery is magical as we carry on to Landmannalaugar. The carparks are full to overflowing, rows of tour buses are leaving and tents are set up like a refugee camp. But the location is stunning with multi-hued mountains in every direction. We squeeze into the camping area and head along the boardwalk for a soak in the hot river. Just magic. And the dozens of other tourists here obviously agree too! The sun sinking over the mountains is just glorious.

We wake to a yet another misty morning, so instead of heading out for a hike we soak in the hot river which is nearly empty of tourists (they are all hiking). As the mist clears, we head out on our hike. What an amazing area – definitely a must see in Iceland. The colours are stunning and the steam vents steaming. As we head back to the carpark tourists are rolling in by the busload. Definitely time for us to leave.

We continue our drive along the F208, and fortunately we seem to have left the rental cars behind. They must come In the other way. The scenery keeps on amazing us with its vibrant colours, jagged mountains and lovely rivers which of course we need to cross. Later we turn off onto the F235 to head up a huge black sand canyon. The scenery is stunning. The black volcanic sand, the vibrant greens of the moss and the blue sky. There is no traffic here. We finally reach the end of the road at Lake Langisjor. The views across to Vatnajokull are amazing. We find our spot to camp and head up the hill for better views of the icecap. Just as well we did because again we wake to a chilly gray morning. It still is lovely driving out with looming black clouds. Then it is back onto the F208 heading south. We plan to turn onto the F233 for more exploring but when we stop at a water crossing we ask the ranger there about the road. She says it would be better not too. The river crossings are very soft and sandy and the roads nearer the icecap are too soft for our heavy truck. Oh well we will simply continue on the F208 until we reach the tarseal main road. We find a camping card campground at Kirkjubaejarklaustur and settle in for the night.

We are off the F roads for a while so now we need to make new plans. Maybe glaciers…

FABULOUS F ROADS - 1

Heading along the F26

Magic views of the icecap

First hot pool - awesome

On the road again after a wet morning

Big river crossings

The views are just getting better

Such a long river crossing - must have been a kilometer

Sigoldafoss

Lovely alpine lake

Into the multihued mountains

Lots of bumpy lava fields

Heading to the hot river

Looking towards our camp spot

FABULOUS F ROADS - 2

Everywhere there are fat happy sheep

Not so much a camp ground but a carpark

Hiking

Love the colours

And back on the road again

Amazing roads

Lots of rivers to cross

Onto a smaller F road

Even more black sand

Not much room for oncoming vehicles - we can't go too far off the road

Stunning lake Langisjor

Looking out to the Icecap

Time to return to the F208

Such stunning colours

Green moss everywhere

Back on the tarseal

Monday, August 31, 2026

FINALLY IN ICELAND AGAIN

When we decided to buy GR3 in Europe John asked me what countries I would like to revisit and Iceland was at the top of the list. We absolutely loved it 10 years ago and can’t wait to see it again.

The anticipation is building as we board the ginormous ferry at the tip of Denmark and find our cabin. We will have 2 nights onboard. Our cabin is basic but adequate, and the ferry is lovely. Much more luxurious than the Tunisia/Algeria ones! And there are no refugee camps in the corridors! The meals are excellent (if a tad pricey) and the people we meet a lot of fun. On the second day we cruise into Torshavn in the Faroe Islands to drop off people and cars. The weather is stunning as we pull in. Hopefully it will be like this when we return.

Another night before we pull into the fjord at Seydisfjordur at the eastern end of Iceland. Again, the sun is out and views are awesome. We disembark slowly and join the queue to pass inspection. Nothing checked, but we are warned to stay on the road. Off-roading is prohibited as too is free camping. We have purchased a camping card onboard so hopefully that helps to ease the cost – we will see. At least it gives us a discount on fuel at certain petrol stations. We have arrived low on fuel because it is cheaper here, so we head to the first discounted fuel station which is in the next town. We head up and over the lovely mountain pass stopping to look at our first Iceland fossa/waterfall.

We head into Eskifjordur to find our fuel station has fuel, but the pumps aren’t working. Of course, we must get our discount so we continue to Reydarfjodur. Finally full of diesel and Adblue we decide to explore the fjord and again wander up to the spar mine that we visited last time. But our main goal on this trip is drive lots of “F” roads. These are Iceland’s famous back tracks only suitable for 4x4’s, and only open in summer. So we spend the next few hours taking the slower more scenic route eventually arriving at Studlagil Canyon. There is a camping ground we can stay at right beside a string of lookouts. Awesome!

The next morning we head off towards the remote and desolate Central Highlands of Iceland. Our first hiccup comes very soon - a narrow bridge with a height and weight limit. Hmmm not worth risking it so we turn in a different direction. This track is narrow, windy and virtually empty of cars. Awesome. A bonus stop on this route is at a pretty lake where there is a row of turf cottages. We explore the museum which includes a pancake buffet in the price. Delicious hot pancakes with rhubarb jam and thick clotted cream! Bonus.

We twist and turn on narrow tracks, now with more traffic. And the going gets rougher as we wind through lava fields and cross the odd river or two. By the end of the day we reach Dreki at the foot of Mt Askja, but we don’t stop there, we head straight up the mountain to walk to the crater. Who knows what the weather will be like tomorrow. Last time we did this walk we had to drag our feet through deep slushy snow, so this time is a breeze and Viti Crater Lake looks awesome, all milky blue and shining.

Back down the mountain at Dreki, the National Park camp, we find a spot on the rocky area. The wind is blowing and it is bitterly cold. In the morning the Ranger comes to tell us that the route that we had planned that skirts around the massive Vatnajokull Icecap is no longer suitable. There was a sandstorm last night covering the road with layers of sand. He recommends heading north on the F88. So again a change of plans. We have driven this road previously and not much has changed except perhaps a bit more traffic. We even meet a 4x4 bus on the track. It is a cold gray day but that only makes the volcanic landscape look more atmospheric. By the middle of the day we are back on the main road, but we don’t stay on it long. We have decided to revisit a string of waterfalls as we head to Husavik on the coast. But this time from the other side of the river via the gravel road. It certainly means there are less tourists on our side. We stop and admire Dettifoss, Selfoss and Hafragilsfoss before heading to the huge delta where the river runs out into the ocean. Then we follow the coast to Husavik. Here we hunt down the Camping card campground. It is packed with local campers here for a huge soccer tournament. We squeeze in and head off to explore town. There is a lovely old Church and a pretty port. Whale watching tours are still heading out even though it is getting late.

Ahh it is lovely to wake to bright sunshine. We head off back south towards more F roads. But first we can’t resist a quick stop at the thundering falls at Godafoss. They are right on the main road so very busy. Then onto F26. As we head south we spy signs to Albeyasfoss. Can’t resist it so we park and head in. It is a steep gravelly path down to the falls so I am gingerly making my way down after landing on my backside. John is racing ahead. And then I see why. There is a photo shoot happening. Nude models are posing for some fine art photos. Not sure how much notice John takes of the waterfall, but I think it is stunning.

Lots more driving to come as we venture south.