We may have circumnavigated Iceland, but
there is a lot of the interior still to explore. The most well-known route is
the Golden Circle that does a big loop out from Reykjavik (so obviously there
are heaps of tourists) We head off.
Our first destination is Pingvellir
National Park. We are horrified to see Pay & Display signs. Later we
discover that these have only been installed this year. We think there will be
more to come. We hike to Oxafoss
waterfall then around the other side of the lake and wander through the rebuilt
old buildings that were a part of Iceland’s Old Parliament (claimed to be the
oldest in the world). As we head out we stop to see where they take tourists
snorkelling or scuba diving between the 2 Continental plates! Didn’t look very
exciting. Finally head north through the park to meet the route 550/The Kaldidalur Corridor. This was previously
closed, but now there are cars coming through so we “do” the drive between the
mountains. Magic! While it is fine we just
keep driving with great views of Langjokull (a massive icecap). There is a side
road up to the ice, so we head up. The track ends right at the icecap – pity we
can’t drive on it! We could camp up
here, but decide to get to the end of the road before stopping – who knows what
the weather will be like tomorrow. So finally find a spot in the riverbed of
the Gieta River.
Yay, we wake to bright sunshine, so head
off on a short detour to visit a lava tube cave at Surtshellir. The first cave
is full of ice pinnacles. The second gets too much for me, so while John heads
in I go overland to 3 of the huge sinkholes that are entries in to the cave. Then back to our river & on to Husafell.
Next stop is Barnafoss with water racing under its rocky bridge, &
Hraunfossar with water running under the lava pillows & out to the river
(look at the picture – it is amazing) Then a quick stop to meander through
Storia, named for the historian Storri, with its old church, buildings &
pool. On to Deildatunguhver to gawp at the hot water steaming out of vents – it
is piped here & sent 74km to Borgarnes. It is also used as heating in loads
of glasshouses so we buy some thermal grown tomatoes. Final stop for the day is
at a tiny hotpot – a bit crowded and way too hot, before heading back through
Pingvellir Nat Pak. Finally, we pull off the main road, & head up to the
mountains for the night.
An early start to beat the tourists.
First to Geyser (the original one) with its centre piece - the geyser called
Stokkur. It goes off every 5 minutes, so we spend most of our time watching the
show. Then on to the premier waterfall – Gullfoss (Golden waterfall) & here
we do find the tourists. But it is a stunning sight with water falling at
different angles. Then it is back to the Ring Road at Selfoss, before heading
back over the mountains to our camp spot in Reykjavik – only this time there
are a row of motorhomes there. How dare they!!! Copying us like that.
Today some maintenance work on GR2 before
we head off to tackle the F roads – some of which are finally starting to open.
And just in time too as we are booked on the ferry in one weeks’ time. We are going to drive the 35 which runs north
south, but first a quick stop to walk around Kenio crater with its blue lake
before we reach the F part of the road. John lets air out of the tyres and we
are on our way. As is often the case here the sun is shining late in the
day….so on we drive between snowy peaks. We want to reach Hveravellir tonight
to soak in the hot pools. And yes, we make it. A mere $5 each, and we soak for
hours, get out and have dinner before soaking again, oh and chatting to a group
of Poles It is nearly midnight by the time we head down the road & find a
pull-out for the night – I don’t think any cars pass in the night!
We are now passing huge lakes – run off
from the enormous glaciers we have been passing -before finally getting back to
the Ring Road. Again, back to an Info Centre to see if any more roads have
opened. We would really like to drive the roads to Laungafell, but they are
still closed – so we will have to miss that one. But a few others have just
opened today – so we will tackle some of these. On again – passing through Akureyri
for a second time. We stop at the waterfront for lunch & John wanders down
the wharf to look at a beautifully restored fishing boat. (The Askell Egilsson)
They are starting whale watching tours today & are offering them at half
price. Before we know it, we are on board for a 3-hr trip at an even lower
price. And it is a glorious afternoon for a cruise – bonus of course is that we
do see lots of whales. To end a lovely day, we find a pretty spot beside Lake
Ljosavatn for the night.
It’s not long before we reach our turn
off to F88. This is the Oskjuleid Route/Askja Way. It is an amazing drive. The
road is merely a goat track that has just been graded & has numerous river
crossings. It looks as if we are driving in a Sci fi movie set, all lunar
landscapes, flat sand, ridged lava fields, snow-capped peaks, it just keeps
changing. Finally, we reach Askja &
head up a smaller track to get to the walking track to Viti Crater. It is a mere 2.5km each way, but feels a lot
further trudging through thick snow. Hey, but it is worth it. The aqua blue,
steaming lake looks amazing. Pity we can’t go do for a swim – the track in to
the crater is still closed. Finally, off out of the Nat Pk to find a spot for
the night, just past a bridge with a gate on it on the F910.
Wake to cold grey sky & a biting
wind. If anything, the road is more of a
goat track than yesterday with very few vehicles. Sometimes you wonder where
the road is as you come up over a scoria mound. Finally, we find the unmarked turnoff
the park ranger told us about. Down a little track to our hot waterfall. Just
awesome – sitting under a shower of hot water. By night-time there are quite a
few of us camping here. In the morning, we return for another long soak, before
heading back to the 910, which eventually becomes a tarsealed road as we reach
a string of massive dams. We explore lots of side roads – well the ones that
are open - all with great views of the Vatnajokull icecap & Mt Snaefell
(the tallest mtn in Iceland) before reaching Laugarfell. There is another
hotpot there, and as this will be the last one we will visit before we leave we
decide to indulge in a few more hours soaking – this time with plenty of
chatting too. We end up camping
surrounded by snowy mountains in every direction – and of course the sky is
blue again late at night!
We have 2 days left. Not long enough to
explore more F roads – so when we arrive at the Nat Park office we ask the very
helpful lady what she recommends – she suggests Bakkagerdi. So, after indulging
in an Icelandic buffet recommended in the LP we start heading in that
direction. But after such a big lunch we need exercise, and there is a 5km
return walk up hill to Henifoss. Another awesome waterfall, & it really
does sound like a Boeing 747 taking off. Then finally on to Bakkagerdi where
there is a bird watching platform to see puffins. Yes, I know we have seen them
before, but really, we have arrived at the optimum time of the day to see them,
so why not. We find a row of motorhomes at the carpark, so we simply stay there
(with all the others) for the night. The puffins put on a good show – catching
fish & generally showing off for the cameras that keep popping.
Our final day we decide to head over the mountains
on our last F road. Great drive with some colourful ranges. Hardly another car.
Heaps of snow – can see why it has only just opened. But then there is another
range – the track is worse, steeper & ungraded. We admit defeat – it really
isn’t worth it on our last day. Besides the mist is coming in. We turn and head
out and on to Seydisfjordur where we are to catch the ferry to the Faroe
Islands for a few days then on to Denmark. By now the rain has started &
continues for hours. Pity as it really is a gorgeous old town. We celebrate
with dinner out before heading to the large area where all the motorhomes are
gathering. Tomorrow we catch the ferry & leave at 10.30am
Faroe Islands here we come!
