Tuesday, October 6, 2015

GOING TO THE SUN


Our next destination is Glacier National Park. We have heard that the “Going to the Sun” Road is the best road in the States (There are so many best roads that maybe they voted on their best roads and they all came out first equal!!!). Anyway it is a very old road built through the Rocky Mountains, with some amazing views of the glaciers. We are very excited, especially as it is still open. As soon as it snows it will be closed for the season. The weather is still gorgeous so we are on a roll. Bring on more National Parks. We head north doing lots of driving, stopping for the usuals – food & fuel. Lots of farming areas, so we tuck up a side road for the night. The next day we pick out some scenic routes – but they really need to cut down some trees before they can be called scenic! Finally we arrive at our destination……but no. At the Park Entrance we are told we are too big to drive the road. Not too long, not too wide (as most motorhomes are) but too tall. We can go in part way and come back out. They even take our rego no to make sure we are obedient. So we head in as far as we are allowed. A lovely scenic reflective lake, lots of leafy trees & a great river. Sadly we turn & head back out. (If it was still summer we could have taken the free shuttle bus!) We have to skirt the outside of the park & re-enter on the east side. There are 3 entrances on this side so we will try all 3.

Bonus: It is a really lovely drive that we hadn’t planned on doing. We stop for some really good Huckleberry Pie & ask the owner about camping John even cons the owners out of a free T-shirt for taking a photo of the truck. We are now in Indian land & will get charged $10 to camp anywhere, so he recommends the southern entrance to the park – Two Medicine Lake. So in we go. Fortunately there are a few spots empty & we settle in for the night. Great views, big fire pit with firewood & lots of visitors. Three young guys, all wannabe Winter Olympiads, share our site for the night (Memo: must remember to watch the 2018 Winter Olympics to see if they get in) and a lovely couple, Kelly & Eli, who make DVD’s. The next morning John gives them an interview, while I head off to take photos – yes I know: excuses!

Time to move on. This time to “Going to the Sun” east side, but here we discover we can only drive in a few kilometers – we thought we could go a lot further. Oh well, north we head to the last entrance – Many Lakes. And for us this is the most beautiful section. A great old Chateau set on a shimmering lake, surrounded by huge mountains. The bonus is 2 black bears (Finally!) – The first we see run up a bank, cross the road & head up another steep bank. Boy he can move fast. The second was high up the hill munching on grass & roots. At the end of the road there are a few very long treks to glaciers.  We decide not to spend the rest of the day hiking, but to head north in to Canada.

Before we know it we have crossed the border. Usually it is no drama, but John has been collecting spent bullet cases and pushing them into the tread of our spare wheels on the back of GR2. The border officials consider this a bit suss, and so decide to search GR2. A pretty fast look, and we are off. Canada here we come.

What a change of scenery. This first part of Alberta is flat, flat, flat. So we just drive on until early evening and find a convenient Walmart near Calgary to stop for the night. Dinner out tonight as we are in town – Ocotoks to be precise. It is pretty chilly, and the next morning is drizzly. Fortunately it is Saturday so we decide on a “drive through” exploration of Calgary. Really the only way to explore on a miserable cold day and it is just another modern city. Of course we stock up on groceries & the cheapest diesel in town – then on to our next destination - The Icefield Parkways. We have been here years ago when everything was covered in snow, so it will be great to see it again. The weather clears & the drive is magic. First stop: Cranmore, to stop at the info centre, use their dump station & have lunch before heading to the very touristy town of Banff. Wouldn’t have recognized it – and we stayed here last time. Finally on to Lake Louise. We stop at the overflow carpark to get on the free shuttle – but it has finished for the day – so we drive up instead. First to Lake Moraine – lines of cars parking & queues waiting for the shuttle. We have found Chinatown. It is wall to wall tourists – and it starts to snow. A quick dash to look at the viewpoint before heading to Lake Louise. Again, many more tourists. Too late in the day to go on a hike so we console ourselves with a hot chocolate at the lovely Lake Louise Chateau. Then we nick back to the overflow carpark for the night. In the morning we find a few others have joined us.

We spend the next day driving the rest of the magnificent parkway. We stop at lots of the viewpoints to ooh & aah, and then stop at Colombia Glacier to do the touristy thing – ride up the glacier in a huge 4x4 snow bus. Pretty awesome. Finally some great waterfalls and the town of Jasper. We head out of the park & on to yet another Walmart in Hinton.

Coming soon: The long drive to Yellowknife.

 

GOING TO THE SUN -PHOTOS

Leaving Yellowstone

Going to the Sun - start of the western side only

Going to the Sun - where we have to turn around

Camp spot - in the morning



Many Lakes

I know he is tiny but you can see him running up the cliff



Many Lakes

Calgary City centre

Calgary

On our way to Icefields

Banff

Lake Moraine

Lake Louise Chateau

Lake Louise







Colombia Glacier



Look who we met on the road! Stone sheep - usually way up in the hills

Not quite on the road

Waterfall obviously

Jasper

Sunday, September 27, 2015

YELLOWSTONE CRAZINESS


When we finish up at the workshop it is still raining, so we decide to head into the centre of Salt Lake City to tour the main attraction here. Yes, that is the massive Temple for The Church of the Latter Day Saints (Mormons). We score a carpark practically outside one of the entrances & feed the machine (who would have thought $4 would get 2 hours!) Then head off to get our tour. The tours are more like instruction in their religion, but it is impressive to see inside the lovely temple, the older small one & then the gigantic conference centre. For the first 2 we had 2 lovely young girls showing us around, but the next guide was an older, much more boring guy. We finally escaped. Followed by a drive around town, before heading to Tim’s driveway for the night. John had met Tim at the Isuzu dealership. The long & the short of it is that Tim & his mate Brian are building a camper out of an ex USA army 4x4 large truck. Should be something special when finished as they are both very competent engineers,

Bright & early we leave the city and head due north. Next stop: Antelope Island State Park, set on an island in Great Salt Lake and connected by a long causeway. Such a great place - we spend the better part of the day exploring. Lots of bison & pronghorn antelopes (all other species here remain hidden from us.) Would be a great spot to stay – but more to see & do, so we continue on. To Logan & then through Logan Canyon. Really pretty, but nowhere to camp, so finally head up a side road until we find a nice spot beside the river. Brrr a chilly night – wake to find our roof vent encrusted with ice. GR2 takes ages to warm up.

On & up over the mountains, with great views of Bear Lake. Then on across the border into Idaho. Lots of farming communities, all with their own large Latter Day Saints Church. Even pass a really lovely LDS cathedral/temple in Paris. Another summit, & in to Wyoming. Lots more towns before we head in to Wyoming’s Grand Canyon. Again lots of white water rafting. Finally reach Jackson Hole – an incredibly touristy town, which we can’t wait to leave. Then on in to Teton National Park. Everywhere we drive we are overshadowed by these magnificent peaks. We finally find a spot in the forest to camp with views of the Tetons/peaks. A campfire, sunset & then sunrise. 

An early start means we get to see a huge male moose, lots of elk & a fox hunting breakfast. Some lovely views over the lake, then more scenic driving. We can’t drive all day, so head off on a walk. Back driving, the road continues straight in to Yellowstone National Park. It is massive, and there is no simple way to drive around & to top it off it is the weekend and the place is packed. We decide to explore the south east quarter & head out to Cody (that way we can return via the very scenic Beartooth Pass that has been highly recommended. On to explore the West Thumb thermal area with its wooden walkways. Lots of aquamarine steaming pools, little geysers going off, and bubbling mud right beside the huge Yellowstone Lake. Apparently fishermen used to cook their catch as soon as they caught them – in the bubbling water. Then we drive along the edge of the lake & up into the mountains, through yet another canyon and in to the town of Cody. And yes there is a Walmart. Campspot solved. Dinner out in a local restaurant with the old boys belting out country & western. Awesome!

The next morning we head to the incredibly famous (here anyway) Buffalo Bill Museum. A big section is about a guy by the name of William Cody/ alias Buffalo Bill: who was a famous tracker, explorer & finally entrepreneur who took his Cowboy & Indian Show around the world (rather like Circus Soliel). There are also sections about Native Indians, the animals in the area, the biggest display of guns we have ever seen etc etc. You really could spend all day here – in fact your ticket is valid for 2 days. But the weekend is nearly over – time to venture back in to Yellowstone, with hopefully fewer people. Finally leave town with an empty loo, full water tanks & full diesel tank (with the cheapest fuel in town of course – thanks to Gasbuddy) Head off towards Beartooth Highway – find a great spot for the night beside the river – it even has a pile of firewood waiting for us.

Up bright & early ready to attack the mountain. And what a drive it is. Near the summit we see a sign – Road Closed. But the barrier isn’t shut & the cars that passed us haven’t returned, so we carry on. Once it snows this road gets closed – and there is evidence of fresh snow all around. The summit is very chilly. Perfect to stop for coffee. Then a magic descent passing heaps of shiny blue lakes. Finally back in to Yellowstone. The list is up for camp grounds (yes we plan to legally camp in one). At least half are closed for the season, and only a few of the remaining have empty spots. We decide to book one once we get there – quite a drive away. On through trees & in to Bison territory. Lots of cars stopped & massive lens trained on these huge beasts. Another stop cameras are pointed to the hills – there is one lonely longhorn sheep there! Too far away for my camera. On to the camp ground – it is now full!!There are cars everywhere, and parking areas are already getting tight. Luckily GR2 can squeeze in to pretty small spots.

Head on south to see one of my must sees – the falls over Grand Canyon – awesome. Then we decide to walk down in to the canyon to the lower viewpoint – what a trudge back up – but worth the great view. More mud pools & crazy thermal areas before doubling up on part of the loop past Yellowstone Lake. No way will we be able to finish the Old Faithful & other geyser areas & exit the park today, so we turn in to Grant Village to see if we can find a spot there. The camp ground is closed. There are heaps of empty carparks…..couldn’t we just use one of them. We see a ranger vehicle & ask. Sure thing – just go behind the petrol station. What a relief! Here we meet a couple from Aus who have hit a moose in their VW camper & are waiting to be towed. What a small world.

Phew another day exploring & tackling the crowds (even carpark queues!) First to the very famous Old Faithful – who faithfully puts on her show. The Beehive puts on an even more spectacular display. Lots of boardwalks to explore – and 100’s more photos taken. More geyser areas to explore – more boardwalks & even more photos! One special stop was a walk to the unofficial outlook over the incredibly gorgeous Giant Prismatic Spring (surely the most vibrant, amazing pool of water). The carpark in to view it was jampacked with a queue waiting – but we got there. Many more thermal areas before it really is time to start heading out of the park. We are geysered out. But one last stop at Mammoth Falls to trek yet more boardwalks, to see the limestone terraces. Magic. Then in town we finally see lots of elk. Males rutting & bugling (all to catch the female’s eye). Finally we are out – find a spot beside the Yellowstone River for the night. Two other motorhomes join us – and yes they are both Aussies! And no we did not see Yogi or Boo Boo.

Coming Soon: “Going to the Sun”  

 

YELLOWSTONE CRAZINESS - PHOTOS

The Temple in Salt Lake city - very opulent

Bison grazing on Antelope Island

A close up of the cute guy - not.

One of the prong horn antelope on the beach

Heading through yet another canyon

Camping for the night beside the river - just off the Logan Canyon

The whole thing is made of antlers

Looking down the Grand Canyon

The Grand Tetons

Our magic camp spot in Forestry land overlooking the Tetons

Morning moose

Elk

Mule deer

Jenny Lake

Red fox

More scenic lake pictures

Baby mule deer

Final view of the Tetons - time for Yellowstone

The bright pools right beside Yellowstone Lake - West Thumb area

The Buffalo Bill Museum in Cody

A Pioneer town in Cody

Starting Beartooth Pass

Heading down the other side

Such pretty lakes

Escaping from Yellowstone!

But there are plenty more left behind

The falls over Yellowstones Grand Canyon

A selfie - very arty

The Beehive Geyser

Old Faithful

There were so many

My top favorite - Giant Prismatic Spring

Look at those colours

We watching this guy getting his lunch

Mammoth Hot Springs - the limestone terraces

More limestone terraces

Bugling Elk - not a pretty sound

Who is going to get the girl?