From our camp in the middle of nowhere we continue our F roads drive
with continuous views of the sparkling icecap until we reach the F333 that
heads directly to Strokkur. We want to stop and see the geyser. It is a crazy
narrow track and fortunately we meet no oncoming traffic. Before we know it, we
are in tourist central. It’s a bit jarring to go from absolutely nobody in
sight to 100’s of tourists, but they are all here. It is paid parking only, but
free entry to the geothermal area. A little overrated, but we watch Stokkur
gush crazily a few times. Geyser has practically gone to sleep now. We head
off, with all the tourists, to the next attraction – the fabulous Gulfoss. From
there on the traffic really thins out as we are now on the north/south F35
gravel road. The weather is perfect and it is an incredible drive. We can still
see the looming icecap and when we see a side road that heads towards it, we
take it. It’s pretty narrow but it takes us right onto the icecap. An amazing
sight and such fun to walk on it.
We will not make the entire drive today so start looking for a spot to
camp, but everything is way too exposed. (Remember free camping is not legal
here). We try the airstrip but there is really nothing there, but see a sign
for Kerlingarfjoll Camping further up the road so head there. If it is
expensive we will bite the bullet and pay. The track takes us high up towards
the Vatnajokull icecap until suddenly we can see down into a narrow valley and we
are stunned to see a big resort and a row of campers. It looks awesome. We
settle in and John goes onto the app to pay, but it is fully booked and we
cannot pay. Oh well we are not leaving and there is heaps of space. We wander
up to the lovely hot pools and enjoy a long soak. All free!
A storm rolls through in the night with rain and strong wind. What a
change from yesterday. Everyone is getting out, and we do too. Such a different
drive with mist covering the mountains and fierce winds rock and rolling GR3. When
we see Hveravellir is just ahead we stop to visit the hot pools. It is nasty
sprinting to the pool in our togs, but we have a great soak. John works out how
to move the pipes to keep the temp perfect. Now the hardest thing will be to
get out! Before we leave, we rug up to explore the geothermal area in spity
rain. Lots more driving before we reach the northern coast at Blonuous. A quick
drive around before we head to the campground at Skagastrond. It is officially
closed, but we drive in and “park” there for the night.
It is still raining in the morning, but we stick to our plan and head
around the peninsula. It is too misty to see much, but it clears for about 30
mins, just enough time to walk to a few waterfalls. These ones drop straight
into the ocean. Back on the main road we see signs for Grettislaug, another hot
pool just down a side road. As it is so wet and nasty we will indulge and enjoy
a long soak and chat to other tourists. Most
of the day has now gone so we head further around the coast and stop at the
rather lovely town of Siglo for the night. Again, we can’t pay on the app so
fingers crossed it will be free! But no, at 8.30pm they come for fees!
After exploring the lovely town, we go back into planning mode. The
weather is lovely, so we decide to head inland again to drive a few more F
roads. We follow the coast to Akureyi and then head south following a lovely
river. Once there are no farms the F821 starts, and boy it is a narrow rough
track. We wind our way up and out of the valley and high into the inland
volcanic wilderness. The views across to
Hofsjokull are magic. Much later we reach Laungafell (we camped here a few
weeks ago) for the night. It is now closed for the season, but we can still
camp here and use the hot pool.
Another soak in the morning before we head off. We are going to tackle
the famous F910 road that runs beside Vatnajokull all the way to Askja. But
first we detour to Nyidalur, the national park headquarters, in the vague hope
they have our no plate there (when we were there earlier they had a row
displayed outside. Remember we lost ours in the river a few weeks ago), but we
find the place locked up and deserted. Oh well it was worth a try. So, we head
to the F910 and find the river we crossed last time is down. John decides to get out and explore. He gets
on his gumboots and heads off. And can you believe it he finds our plate washed
up on the bank about 500m down the river looking very sad and worn. But hey we
have it back!!!
And so, we continue driving very very slowly all day. We are winding
through jagged lava fields and sandy riverbeds. The scenery is magic, but we
will not make it to the National Park hut today, so we find a wider section of
track and pull over for the night. We have seen no one all day. In the morning
we continue the drive. More twisting and turning through lava fields. The lava
is tall and John is very careful on the tight turns in case the back of the
truck rocks into it. On one turn we see a box. It has obviously fallen off a
vehicle, so we stop. It won’t fit into our truck, so John just loads the
contents into our truck in the hope that we can find the owner. Later in the day the lava fields finally end,
and we drive miles of lovely black sand before reaching the camp, For 1.5 days
we have seen nobody - unbelievable in Iceland. The trucks computer shows 4.5hrs
driving, 37 litres per 100km, averaging at 11kpm, hard work for John. The camp
is officially closed (so free!), but we can still stay. At 11pm the phone beeps
and despite the chilly night I venture out. Yes, the Lights are out, but not
very bright. It’s way too cold to stay out too long!
Wake to a cold gray morning, so it’s a slow start. A message has come
through that our ferry has been changed and we are leaving a day earlier so we
will need to get a move on. We wind through numerous F roads (all much easier
than the 910) before we finally reach the good road at Modrudalur. There is a
row of grass topped houses and a reindeer on the road. Of course we stop. Then
back to the main road with strings of cars and buses. On through black desert
scenery and stop for the night at the waterfront at Voprafjordur camping
ground. This one isn’t free!
As we will be getting on the ferry tomorrow we decide to do chores. The
usual washing, cleaning, toilet, water etc. Then a magic drive up over the
mountains and down numerous tight hairpins to the coast again. Back on the main
road we fill up with diesel before heading to Seydisfjordur for the night. Late
morning our ferry pulls in and we join the massive queue to embark. John starts
his hunt for the owner of the box and can you believe it he finds him. The very
happy Swiss owner takes us to dinner at the fanciest restaurant onboard as a
thank you.
We have one night on the ferry….. and then we are off to explore the
Faroe Islands.
