When we decided to buy GR3 in Europe John asked me what countries I
would like to revisit and Iceland was at the top of the list. We absolutely
loved it 10 years ago and can’t wait to see it again.
The anticipation is building as we board the ginormous ferry at the tip
of Denmark and find our cabin. We will have 2 nights onboard. Our cabin is
basic but adequate, and the ferry is lovely. Much more luxurious than the
Tunisia/Algeria ones! And there are no refugee camps in the corridors! The
meals are excellent (if a tad pricey) and the people we meet a lot of fun. On
the second day we cruise into Torshavn in the Faroe Islands to drop off people
and cars. The weather is stunning as we pull in. Hopefully it will be like this
when we return.
Another night before we pull into the fjord at Seydisfjordur at the
eastern end of Iceland. Again, the sun is out and views are awesome. We disembark
slowly and join the queue to pass inspection. Nothing checked, but we are
warned to stay on the road. Off-roading is prohibited as too is free camping. We
have purchased a camping card onboard so hopefully that helps to ease the cost
– we will see. At least it gives us a discount on fuel at certain petrol
stations. We have arrived low on fuel because it is cheaper here, so we head to
the first discounted fuel station which is in the next town. We head up and
over the lovely mountain pass stopping to look at our first Iceland
fossa/waterfall.
We head into Eskifjordur to find our fuel station has fuel, but the
pumps aren’t working. Of course, we must get our discount so we continue to Reydarfjodur.
Finally full of diesel and Adblue we decide to explore the fjord and again
wander up to the spar mine that we visited last time. But our main goal on this
trip is drive lots of “F” roads. These are Iceland’s famous back tracks only
suitable for 4x4’s, and only open in summer. So we spend the next few hours taking the
slower more scenic route eventually arriving at Studlagil Canyon. There is a
camping ground we can stay at right beside a string of lookouts. Awesome!
The next morning we head off towards the remote and desolate Central
Highlands of Iceland. Our first hiccup comes very soon - a narrow bridge with a
height and weight limit. Hmmm not worth risking it so we turn in a different
direction. This track is narrow, windy and virtually empty of cars. Awesome. A
bonus stop on this route is at a pretty lake where there is a row of turf
cottages. We explore the museum which includes a pancake buffet in the price.
Delicious hot pancakes with rhubarb jam and thick clotted cream! Bonus.
We twist and turn on narrow tracks, now with more traffic. And the going
gets rougher as we wind through lava fields and cross the odd river or two. By
the end of the day we reach Dreki at the foot of Mt Askja, but we don’t stop
there, we head straight up the mountain to walk to the crater. Who knows what
the weather will be like tomorrow. Last time we did this walk we had to drag
our feet through deep slushy snow, so this time is a breeze and Viti Crater Lake
looks awesome, all milky blue and shining.
Back down the mountain at Dreki, the National Park camp, we find a spot
on the rocky area. The wind is blowing and it is bitterly cold. In the morning the
Ranger comes to tell us that the route that we had planned that skirts around the
massive Vatnajokull Icecap is no longer suitable. There was a sandstorm last
night covering the road with layers of sand. He recommends heading north on the
F88. So again a change of plans. We have driven this road previously and not
much has changed except perhaps a bit more traffic. We even meet a 4x4 bus on
the track. It is a cold gray day but that only makes the volcanic landscape
look more atmospheric. By the middle of the day we are back on the main road,
but we don’t stay on it long. We have decided to revisit a string of waterfalls
as we head to Husavik on the coast. But this time from the other side of the
river via the gravel road. It certainly means there are less tourists on our
side. We stop and admire Dettifoss, Selfoss and Hafragilsfoss before heading to
the huge delta where the river runs out into the ocean. Then we follow the
coast to Husavik. Here we hunt down the Camping card campground. It is packed
with local campers here for a huge soccer tournament. We squeeze in and head
off to explore town. There is a lovely old Church and a pretty port. Whale
watching tours are still heading out even though it is getting late.
Ahh it is lovely to wake to bright sunshine. We head off back south
towards more F roads. But first we can’t resist a quick stop at the thundering falls
at Godafoss. They are right on the main road so very busy. Then onto F26. As we
head south we spy signs to Albeyasfoss. Can’t resist it so we park and head in.
It is a steep gravelly path down to the falls so I am gingerly making my way
down after landing on my backside. John is racing ahead. And then I see why.
There is a photo shoot happening. Nude models are posing for some fine art
photos. Not sure how much notice John takes of the waterfall, but I think it is
stunning.
Lots more driving to come as we venture south.
