TRAVELLING IN TUNISIA

 

After lunch we head to the coastal town of Mahinda. Instead of winding through the maze of streets we head straight to the tourist zone and find a spot right beside a lovely sandy beach. We will camp here for the night. Then we head out on our scooters to explore. We head along the waterfront lined with blue and white houses, right out to Cape Afrique with its lighthouse, cemetery and massive fort (sadly closed) and then continue around the tip to the port. It was fortunate that we didn’t drive into town because the markets are only just starting to pack up and they are sprawled all over the streets.

In the morning, we continue driving north along the coastline. The beaches here are shallow and rubbish strewn, but it doesn’t stop the flamingos hunting for food. In the towns the men are already at the cafes sipping coffee and smoking. Ramadan has officially finished and there is now a 3-day holiday to spent time with family and enjoy feasting. We carry on to the tidy town of Monastir and navigate the wide streets right to the centre of town to the port and Ribat/fort. The fort is closed because of the holiday, and the locals are out enjoying themselves. There are amusements and food stalls dotted everywhere. We wander to the Habib Bourguiba Memorial to admire the ornate tomb. He was Tunisia’s first president, and he built this splendid place before he died (a bit creepy building your grave before you die) Then we head the medina and are not impressed as it is deserted and rubbish strewn. We head out of town. Our plan was to visit the Medina in the big city of Sousse, but we think it too will be deserted, so decide to give it a miss. Instead, we turn and head inland towards the famous Roman ruins of Dougga.

We have just started to drive along the ring road around the city of Kairouan when John suggests that we drive through the city to see the famous Great Mosque. Apparently seven pilgrimages here are equivale to one to Mecca, so this is an important Mosque, but as it is Friday it will be closed to tourists. We easily find a park so decide to walk in through the huge walls and have a look for ourselves, but we meet a local who takes us into the entrance so that we can peek right inside the Mosque as well. Of course, he is a guide, and he offers us a tour of the lovely kasbah with its winding (clean) alleyways and old doors. The shops are sadly nearly all closed, but it is still a fun tour and at least the price has been agreed to before we set out. Then it’s on to the small town of Teboursouk and the Thugga Hotel where we can camp. It is the only place near the ruins we can camp – there are reports of police moving you on if you camp anywhere else.

Early the next morning we head straight to Dougga. No one else is here yet so we enjoy exploring this ancient city that sprawls across the top of the hill. By the time we leave there are a row of buses and vans in the carpark. We continue our drive winding up and over the lovely Tehoursouk mountains. The roads are narrow and there is lots of traffic, but we finally reach our next destination of Bulla Regia, yet another Roman site. All the locals are out today wandering the site, having picnics and chatting loudly. We join them looking at the massive bath complex and a row of lovely Roman villas, some with lovely tilework still onsite. We can stay overnight in the carpark which will be locked overnight once all the locals head home. 

We are now not too far from the border with Algeria, so it is time to again head towards the coast and then on Tunis. But first there are the Atlas Mountains to navigate. Here they are covered in pine and cork forests, so of course there are heaps of stalls selling wood and cork products. We wind down into the town of Fernana where the streets are filling up with markets and then the bigger town of Ain Draham before continuing down to the coast at the port town of Tabarka. We can park and camp right at the port. A magic spot looking over all the bright fishing boats and waterfront restaurants. We walk up to the Genoese Fort and later we wander in a different direction right around the waterfront and up a hill for lovely views. In the distance we can see (and hear!) the pirate ship that went out with a load of locals. The music is loud and they dance for the whole hour it is out.  

Again, time to move on with the usual squeezing out of town and on to Bizerte. It is late morning when we arrive and I am so nervous about mayhem traffic that I get John to park near the buses, and we set off on foot to explore.  Much easier, in my opinion, than driving in and trying to find a park. At first the streets are grubby, but then we reach the kasbah we go wow this really is pretty. There is a lovely harbour with colourful buildings on one side and the huge kasbah/fort on the other. We wander through the kasbah, which is totally residential, then around the waterfront. The bright boats look great but the stench at the end of the inlet is something else indeed! Then it is easy to get out of town and return to the motorway all the way to the city of Tunis.

 We find a secure parking lot for the night and head in the next morning.  After a visit to the Mercedes workshop we can return to the sightseeing stuff. We missed the ancient Roman ruins of Carthage on our last trip so it is a must see. We head to the huge carpark and set out on foot to check the baths and villas. The site is scattered all over an upmarket Tunis suburb, so the roads are quiet enough to tackle the rest on our scooters. Carthage was certainly an impressive city in its heyday. Back at GR3 we decide that it is time to book our ferry back to Sicily but imagine our shock when we realize that the next few ferries are full! We really shouldn’t wing it, now we have another week in Tunisia. Back to the planning board.

Later that day 2 more motorhomes join us and there is another hiccup. At 10pm the police arrive. “You must move – follow me” Reluctantly we pack up and the 3 of us follow him. Not a clue where we are going. Then we reach a 3.5m overpass (and we are 3.6), we stop hoping the police will come back for us, but they don’t. I get out to check and we slither under (by mere cms I think – probably an exaggeration). By now we have totally lost them but we are saved. The Italian guy in one of the motorhomes messages us a spot of where they are. Phew! They are down at the beach near Sidi Bou Said – the town we were planning to tour on our scooters.

When we finally crawl out of bed the other 2 motorhomes have left, but as it is such a lovely spot we feed the parking machine some money and head off to explore town. Unfortunately, a massive cruise ship has docked, and buses are depositing countless tourists into the town. We duck between people and avoid shopkeepers haggling for our dinars. Despite the mayhem it is a very pretty town – all white with blue doors and shutters. We can’t resist the hot donuts.

Originally, we planned to spend a few days more in Tunis before getting onto a ferry, but now we have an extra week, so the new plan is to explore the Cape Bon Peninsula and slow down.   More to come of our extra time in Tunisia!