ALTITUDE AILMENTS - PHOTOS

An amzing drive - very glad we didn't meet any oncoming traffic

The viaduct

Purmarca - a lovely setting

Salada Grande - a massive salt lake

Watch out fellas - lots of llamas here

Cemetary at Susques

Fantastic high altitude road

Border time yet again

Back to the desert

ALTITUDE AILMENTS (GR2)

Camping at 3828m meant that our diesel hot water & heater wouldn't work, but fortunately our stove top did. We woke to a very cold morning (-1.5C outside) with ice on our roof vent.

Our next stop was Viaducto La Polvorilla - a massive viaduct 64m high x 324m long on what is called Tren a las Nubes (railway in the clouds) which is still used for tourists. We are still at high altitude (4000m) and get "pooped" just walking up to the viaduct. But it is not just us that is "pooped". So is GR2. She has been great going up over passes, but doesn't like staying at over 3500m for any length of time, but as we head towards the Salinas Grande (salt lake) lights start flashing. John stops to try to over ride the auto system to clear the build up of gases (as we had in Peru), but it doesn't work and after 50km we lose power and GR2 goes into "Limp Home" mode (50% power).

We had been planning to head over another very high border to Chile (no food in our fridge now for this event) but that seems crazy, so we change direction and head back to the cities of Jujuy and Salta to find a mechanic. We need to plug into a computer to clear the fault.

We didn't actually check on our maps, but the route was via another mountain pass of 4170m which we drove very, very slowly. Then down through more "gorgeous" gorges and stop overnight at Purmarmarca. A really cute town set beside Cerro de los Sieste Colores (hill of 7 colours). That night John tries llama steak - very nice once I stop thinking about cute llamas. Oh and they had great markets here (bought Sammy another jumper here)
Anyway I digress. On to Jujuy - cannot find any suitable workshops, so head to Salta (a much bigger city) via what I think is the most direct route. Sadly we go on the narrowest, windiest road ever. Absolutely gorgeous bush, rather like Mt Glorious at home, but a nightmare with a "Limp Home" GR2. Finally, and after much sweating, we reach Salta. After eight attempts to find someone, we strike gold. Jorge can fix it in a flash!! Feeling very relieved we set off back to Chile, with lots more power. No more dirt roads for us. We travel on lovely tarsealed roads all the way to the border. BUT...........the Paso de Jama is at 4170m, and after the border we continue to climb to 4800m and stay at altitude for over 100km. Incredibly scenic, but again....you guessed it. Lights flash and we go into "Limp Home" mode again.
So we limped to the first town in Chile - San Pedro de Atacama (we have come here to see the geysers), but now need a mechanic. We think we should be OK in Chile as they have Isuzu, whereas Argentina didn't. After another morning spent with a mechanic we have to head to Calama - a city 100km away in the Atacama desert. At the second attempt here they really try to help, but again no joy. We now have to go to Antofagasta - 200km away.
Johns Verdict: In Chile the Isuzu is marketed as Chevrolet, but unfortunately their pollution standards are much lower than Australia, so none of their computer software is compatible. I just love computers!!
So after an extra 700km and mechanics spending 7hrs (at no cost to us), we have to head back to Jorge in Salta, Argentina.

GORGEOUS GORGES - PHOTOS 2

GORGEOUS GORGES - PHOTOS

Road of snails

Puerto Inca- amazing rock bridge

Another amazing road to the old pass between Chile & Argentina

Statue of Christos Redentor

Yet another dead shed

Nightime camp spot

New subdivision

At shrine to Difunta Correa

More at the shrine - get your car blessed

Roller coaster road

At Valle de la Luna

Rocks!!!

GR2 at Valle de las Luna

GORGEOUS GORGES (How corny is that)

This area of Argentina has more mountains and gorges than we had ever imagined. It is difficult to choose a route as every route is "gorgeous". So we are just winding our way north through some amazing technicolour scenery. This place is a geologist's paradise.

Our first drive after Mendoza is appropriately named "Route of Snails" winding up the precordilla's. Then we head to the Argentine/Chile border to see the spectacular Andean pass, where there is a tunnel between the 2 countries. We do not cross into Chile (too much food in our fridge), but we drive the old route - Las Cuevas - to the top of the mountains - requiring many switchbacks to climb to a height of nearly 4000m where there is a huge statue "Cristo Redentor" erected by both countries after a border dispute.

We retrace our steps and then continue driving north through a beautiful lush valley full of villages with lots of mudbrick houses, poplars, weeping willows and crops. Then another gorges before we reach San Juan.

Leaving town we see a new bike path with picnic/BBQ stops for the bikes leading all the way to the shrine for Difunta Correa. The story goes that this lady followed her husband during a war and died from dehydration, but when she was found her baby was still alive and breast feeding. This "miracle" has prompted people to visit her shrine and leave mementos in the hope that they will receive a miracle. There is a whole town full of items, including vehicle number plates and models of houses. It is an amazing sight. There are heaps of other roadside shrines also to Difunta Correa (along with thousands of "dead sheds" - memorials to those who have died on the roads.)

Our next drive is through Pk Nat Valle Feritl to Pk Nat Ischiguialasto/Valle de la Luna. To tour the park we go in a vehicle convoy for 3 hours. It is an amazing moonscape and a "gorgeous" red canyon. The final stop is the dinasour museum.

Our next drive takes us through Cueva de Miranda - another range of red hills covered with lush green growth and cacti - again spectacular, although the road is pretty basic. Finally we reach the town of Chilecote, stopping here to see the Museo Cabil Carril - the cable car went 36km into the mountains to collect gold and silver from the mines.

Then it is back to route 40 north. At the little town of Belen we stop for groceries. John heads off to get more cash from the ATM. Disaster!!! The ATM swallows his card and refuses to spit it back out. He hovers over everyone who gets money out of the same ATM.....must have looked very shady!!!, until someone finally helps - he knocks on a door (it is Saturday and the bank is closed) and a lady comes, unlocks the machine and retrieves the card. Phew!!! I really thought we might have to wait until Monday, or cancel our card.

We continue on through lots more vineyards and small towns. Then the very touristy town of Cafayate with some amazing old colonial bogadas (vineyards). sadly they are all closed as it is Sunday. Then we drive through Quebrada (canyon) de Cafayate - more "gorgeous" red rock scenery. This place must be pretty special as there are lots of tourist buses, little artisans stalls, buskers with pan pipes and food being cooked.

Our next gorge is Cuesta del Obispo. Masses of emerald mountains with even more amazing roads. Part way up we stop at local markets and buy cake (of course) and watch kids being taken for rides. The horses are fully kitted out with fancy saddles. This drive tops out at 3457m. At the top there are guancos grazing (oh cattle & horses as well)

Then on through Nat Pk Los Cardones with more amazing technicolour canyons and 1000's of cacti. Just "gorgeous". We follow the route of the Artisans past cottages selling their wares - mainly weaving & pottery. Lots of these mudbrick houses have colonaded fronts - talk about fancy facades!! Lots more villages in this pretty valley - Molinos, Cachi, Payogasta. Then on to yet another mountain range and pass - the Abra del Acay topping at 4900m. Another magic drive on a really bad road - twisting, narrow, lots of fords.....I was very glad we met no oncoming traffic so the narrowest parts. We make sure we ascend to 3828 for the night as we both have mild headaches.

More to come........many more scenic mountains!

Adios amigos

VOLCANS, TERMAS & GEYSERS - PHOTOS

Geysers - John nearly fell in here!

Our illegal volcano climb

Another campspot







VOLCANS, TERMAS (HOT SPRINGS) & GEYSERS

We are getting a bit bored with mountains & lakes. It is definitely time for a change of scenery, so we are off to explore volcanos & geysers, and hopefully soak in some hot pools. We leave the main road at Chos Malai and head north to Varvarco passing huge areas of volcanic activity. Many of the little towns we pass have helpful iourist info offices that give us local maps with things to see and do. The highlights are some amazing rock formations at Las Bolillios, a thermal waterfall at Villa Agua Callienties and a drive right up to some little geysers. We wild camp at our very own hot pool (not a waterfall, but it does have hot running water) with a sheltered rock BBQ area with rock seats for 2. What more could we ask for. Priceless!!!

The next day we find some magic geysers. John nearly falls into one trying to put rocks in the change the flow! Typical!!

We return to route 40 via a back road. The plus being there are no roadworks on this one, and all the traffic is on the other road. It is a public holiday and the locals are coming, no doubt to sit in our hot pool.

Our next detour is into Resevera Profincial El Payen home to over 800 volcanos. Our map shows no roads, but we know tourists can go with 4x4 tour operators. So we decide if they can go, so can we! We get directions from a local and head off. It is a huge drive on a goat/rock track with no signs after passing the mining area (interestingly mines & Nat Paks combined!). The volvanic scenery is magic. We decide to get a few photos of GR2 climbing a volcano, when we see some tour vehicles approaching (the only 2 vehicles all day) WOOPS! We are sprung and politely asked to keep on the tracks. To top it off our diesel is getting low and we haven't a clue how far out of here. We wouldn't recommend the drive to anyone. It was very scenic, but John didn't see too much of it.

Following route 40 we are finally out of the mountains and into flat fertile countryside with lots of irrigation, so lots of crops and vineyards. Before we reach Mendoza we detour via Canyon Del Atuel. It is late as we arrive, so it is a magic drive with lots of glowing colours. We camp in the canyon, which is a bit chilly, and then head out to San Rafael. A pretty town with streets full of flowing trees and a lovely town square. Rather like a small Mendoza.

At Mendoza we decide to use a camping ground. The first we find is a bit far out of town, the second has closed for the season and the third closes the next day. Oh well! We want to find a mechanical workshop while we are here to get the brakes adjusted, so in the process of hunting we manage to drive through lots of town. There are lots of overhanging trees and busy town squares. Oh and we get the brakes fixed.

Salutes, until next time....