Sunday, June 7, 2015

A BIT OF UTAH & ONTO COLORADO


Today is John’s 60th birthday. We celebrate with a big breakfast. By the time we are finished all the other campers have left. We later realize that there is an hour’s time change in Utah.

First destination today is Goosenecks State Park (actually where we had intended to camp before we found our lovely spot)  The goosenecks in the river look pretty amazing, but there are only so many photos you can take & only so long you can talk to other campers ,…. Time to leave, it is bitterly cold.

Second destination is the dirt road loop road of “The Valley of the Gods” – magic. Like a free version of Monuments in Arizona. Pity it is so early in the day as there are lots of great spots to camp. Then it is on over the mountains via Moki Dugway – not for the faint hearted!

Third destination is Natural Bridges National Monument. By now it is raining, but we still walk to each lookout and we even walk right under one of the bridges – a stiff walk assisted with ladders & handrails. Hard work in the wet.

Finally leave by 4pm & head to Blanding via a few more lovely canyons. At the info centre we use their Wifi (In the Indian Reservation area our hotspot & phones have not being getting range). When it cuts out we head to the best restaurant in town – sharing a table with 2 other couples makes for a fun night. Then out to a lake for the night.

First destination today via a scenic drive (mind you, most of them are here) is to Hovenweep National Monument. Not too many people here, & there is a lovely walk around the old Indian ruins. These are right on the edge of the canyon, rather than tucked into the cliffs. There are more up the road, but the tracks are now impassable due to the wet. We cross the border into Colorado. Another quick walk at Castle Rock in Canyon of the Ancient National Monument – we could walk here for hours – but time to move - we want to get to Mesa Verde National Park today. Finally we get there, along with many others – after all it the Sunday of Memorial Day weekend. A long drive in, is followed by a loop road with lots of stops to explore. We are too late to book a tour, but we still can get pretty close to one set of ruins. Finally we start heading out by 7pm. We stop at a viewpoint – it is so clear we can see a mountain about 270kms away. At Mancos we hunt for a campspot. Finally head into San Juan National Forest, but not onto grass as everywhere is wet & slushy.

It rains in the night, and we get lots more showers today. We head in to Durango, and as it is early park right on the main street right outside the Welcome Centre – great as they have good Wifi, which we make the most of during the rain & hail. Then we head out for lunch at the Diamond Belle Saloon where the girls are wearing burlesque! The décor is pretty good too. We should have put another tip jar on the side of GR2 or charged for photos. She was a major tourist attraction today! A final drive through town before we head on through some amazing mountains to Silverton - another old mining town. This one is pretty tiny and dead. As the sun is still shining we decide to continue our magic drive over the Million Dollar Road to Ouray – WOW!!  Yet another superb drive cut through a gorge with heaps of snow. Finally arrive at Ouray at 6.30pm and head up to the Amphitheatre camping area (after we settle in we discover it is not free… Oh well, it is a lovely spot with views over the town).

We wake to sunshine. Great. So we head to town to explore – on foot this time. Then drive on out of the canyons to the large town of Montrose. Time to stock up on food, diesel & water. Then on to Black Canyon of the Gunnison – it is an incredibly deep canyon, with steep walls. Sadly it starts to rain. We walk to all the lookouts, but decide not to negotiate the narrow dirt road down into the canyon itself. Our original plan was to continue north after Gunnison, but we are tired of cold, wet weather, so instead will  head in a southeast direction. As we head east to Gunnison there are lots of lovely lakes with paid camping, but we are heading towards BLM land to find free camping – eventually finding a lovely quiet spot for the night still at about 8500 ft, just before we head up yet another mountain pass (We prefer to stay down a bit lower where it will be a bit warmer – hopefully)

The next day we head over the mountain pass & onto flatlands. A quick stop at a small museum at Saguache, before miles of flat farmland. We are heading to Great Sand dunes National Park. We can see it as we get closer. Miles of dunes nestled into the side of snowy mountains. We are amazed by the number of people here. Then walk through the frigid water, where kids are playing, marveling at how the waves come down the river, before wandering into the dunes. The camp ground is full & the road over the mountains closed – bummer! We will have to go another way.

So we head south on the 150 & over the range at a lower point, then head northeast towards Walsenburg. It is nearly 5pm when we spy a tyre shop – manage to get the wheels rotated. By now it is getting late so we decide to head back to a State park to camp.  Oh bother – the sheriff is following us. We pull into the State Park & he keeps coming. He just wants to chat! John asks him where we can free camp & he ends up taking us to a great spot not too far from his house. We would have never driven up that goat track on our own!

Oh getting a bit boring there Lynda. Will try to lighten it up in the next blog.

UTAH & COLORADO - PHOTOS

Gooseneck State Park

Valley of the Gods

Valley of the Gods

Heading into Moki Dugway

The Moki Dugway

Looking into the Bridge

The bridge

Walking aids in Bridges National Park

More scenic driving

Hoovenweep

Hoovenweep

Mesa Verde National Park


Views from Meas Verde National Park

Snow at the pass

Gold mine on the Million Dollar Rd

Million Dollar Rd

Town of Ouray

One of the cute Mule Deer

Ouray

Black Canyon of the Gunnison

The amazing canyon

Great camp spot on BLM land

Sand Dune National Park

Friday, May 29, 2015

IT'S SNOWING IN ARIZONA


It is time to head on towards Flagstaff for the Overland Vehicle Expo. So another session of map planning – we always look for back roads and scenic routes – we find one – a section of Route 66. But first is an awesome drive through dry sandy desert, crazy plants & weird escarpments. Finally off our back roads and onto the main motorway: Rte 40. When we reach the Colorado River, we turn off the motorway onto our historic route. This section is a bit rough & deserted, but by the time we reach Oatman we find the tourists. The town is straight out of the mining days- with old time shops, mock mines, tourist tat, burros (donkeys) & even a shootout on the main road. After lunch in the local bar we head into the Black Mountains – a very scenic, narrow part of route 66. At Kingman we stop to tour the museums, especially the Route 66 one. Then on to find a spot for the night. Fifty trains go past every day so we want to be a bit away from the railway line – end up not far from the road, but most of this flat area is farmed.

That evening we check out camping details for the Expo and discover that we were expected today (Thursday) or by 8am tomorrow as we are (VIP Traveler’s). Woops, we are still over 200km away. We wake early – mainly because it is so cold & a bit noisy - so decide to head off. Back to the motorway as soon as we can. The road starts to climb, and we see why the night was cold. There is lots of fresh snow, with more to come. Traffic slows down & only one lane is clear. As we reach Flagstaff we see snow ploughs heading out. We reach Mormon Lake (where the show is) before 8am. The grounds are pretty waterlogged – we find our soggy site & settle in. John heads off to explore while I stay nice & warm inside catching up on some computer work. Eventually I head out for some talks. In the evening it is way too cold to head to the outside fireside chats. That night it snows!! Brrrr. The place looks magic covered with snow, but it doesn’t take long to turn into massive muddy puddles. Despite this we go to lots of forums & presentations, see lots of overland vehicles & meet lots of people – including a few Aussies in their vehicles. We really enjoyed the expo with many likeminded folk and lots of interesting vehicles.

Sunday the show winds up with a BBQ. We decide to stay put for the night. Lots have left – lots have to be towed out. Monday morning we head back to Flagstaff to replenish our supplies. We spy an appliance repair shop, so drop off our washing machine (which we still haven’t been able to repair) and head off to meet our friends Johan & Anne who we met in Alaska last year. The rest of the day is spent with them – we even sleep outside their Wyndham unit for the night. (Guess what kids – we even went to a Wyndham presentation!)

Heading off the next morning we are “back on the road”. First stop Sedona (very highly recommended by Elizabeth). The drive descends through a glorious canyon to a landscape full of brilliant red escarpments that get more jaw dropping as we head into town. Sedona town is a lovely tourist strip full of many ways to part with your money. There are heaps of tourists & heaps of hotels. After loading up with more paper from the info centre we head off to explore. There are numerous scenic back roads – mainly dirt – that we explore. The other tourists are doing the trip in open back jeeps. It is a full day with lots of driving, trekking & sightseeing before we end up in a BLM area to disperse camp for the night.

Back to Flagstaff. Our washing machine can’t be repaired, so we collect it & head on to Walnut Canyon National Monument. We walk down many, many steps to look at some of the Indian cave dwellings perched under ledges of rock. There are 100’s of them here. Then back up those stairs for a well earned lunch in GR2. Next stop Meteor Canyon. As this is privately owned our National Park pass doesn’t work, & it costs $16ea (even as seniors!) So we make sure we see the movie, go on the guided tour (was that “Baaa” you said John?). As usual the day has raced by & we had planned to tour the Petrified Forrest as well. Oh well, we carry on and are suitably pleased to see a free camping ground at the entrance. What perfect timing. We stop beside Aussies in their RV. What a small world.

We thought we would just buzz through the Petrified Forrest – how wrong we were. Lots of stops, lots of walks before the better part of the day is over. Obviously we enjoyed it more than expected, especially the Painted Desert. By 2.30pm we are back onto the motorway and into the Indian Reservation area. There are so many red rock formations I have to stop myself taking too many photos. They are amazing.  Find a great spot beside a lake to camp, but decide to carry on as the weather is so gorgeous - We are heading to Canyon de Chelly National Monument. As we approach the landscape is flat with lots of scruffy plants. We head down to the first vista point and wow we are blown away by this canyon. It is truly gorgeous. We stop at all the lookouts & even glimpse lots of cliff dwellings, before evening approaches. My Lonely Planet says there is free camping near the visitor centre at Chinile so we head there for the night.

Another day dawns bright & sunny so we head off early to have breakfast at one of the many lookouts on the south side of the canyon. There is a walk down into the canyon, but as it takes 2 hours (probably much more with John prodding me with a stick) we decide to head on. Back in town we restock with food & stop at the local flea market – more trash than treasure, before heading on through Indian farming/reservation with untold red rock formations. Our planned destination is Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park. Because it is Indian owned our National Park card will not work. So in we head at $20 per vehicle. The signs say no RV’s or trucks on their road around the monuments – as it is a rough Indian road. We head off on the 18km drive. The other poor suckers who can’t drive on it have to pay out for a trip on the back of a jeep – all open air. And the drive is pretty dusty! We spent the rest of the day exploring – amazing. There is an RV park inside the grounds, but at $45 a pop – we head on out. Further down the road we pass Mexican Hat – an interesting rock formation. There is a little road to it – so we head off and find a magic spot for the night along with a few other campers. On our way here we have crossed the border – Utah coming next.

 

 

ARIZONA - PHOTOS

Yes we are on Historic Route 66

Gun action at Oatman - on the tourist track

Driving over the black mountains - route 66 - just after Oatman

A wild burro - the rest were in town getting fed by tourists

On our way to Flagstaff

And yes there was lots of snow - when does summer start here?

At the Overland Expo

This is what it turned into - some of the Aussie vans for sale here

Sedona's red rocks - I have 100's of photos

One of the back tracks in Sedona

Even more of Sedona

Indian cave dwellings at Walnut Canyon

The Meteor site

Petrified Wood National Park

A lovely walk in the Petrified Park

Driving in the Petrified Park

Back on the main road - red rocks everywhere

Canyon de Chully

Indian cliff dwellings

Even more

Wow

I know - even more

Last one I promise

On to Monument Valley Tribal Navajo Park

More views in Monument Valley

Yet more!

Mexican Hat

Driving in to our lovely camp spot behind Mexican Hat