FABULOUS F ROADS

 

Miles of crazy driving through magic eerier lunar landscapes at we follow the F26 south. In the distance we can see the mighty icecap of Vatnajokull and the smaller one of Hofsjokull. Much later we turn off on a smaller F road to head to the camping at Laugafell. The attraction here is the hot pools where we spend a few hours soaking. In the morning we wake to a cold miserable day. When rain sets in we decide to wait it out. We even venture to the hot pools in the icy wind but by lunchtime we are bored. Fortunately, our Aussie friends arrive so we spend a few hours chatting. By 4pm we head off. The sun is trying to peek out. We head back to the F26 and now the views are magic. The smaller icecap of Tungnafelljokull is stunning. We decide to skirt around it while the views are awesome until we come to a large rushing river where we decide to turn around. But there is nowhere to turn so John plunges straight into the river (If I had known I would have jumped out for photos), turn on the other side and plunge through the river again. Crazy! Then continue our drive south. There is a National Park campground at Niyidalur we are heading for. But first we reach a huge braided river and need to look for markers as we cross nearly a kilometre of waterways. When we pull into camp we discover our front no plate has gone! John suggests going back to look for it, but it will be long gone!

It’s another chilly night and again gray and miserable in the morning. This time we head off anyway, but fortunately it soon clears making everything look so much better. There are a few small river crossings but nothing like yesterday’s ones! And bonus, very little traffic, only a huge group of walkers. They must be crazy to hike for miles along this barren stretch of road! Much later the road improves and we find a huge dam and power station. They have left Sigoldufoss/waterfall untouched so we can  admire it. It is here we turn off the F26 onto the F208 (a route we tried to drive 10 years ago, but it was still closed with snow). It is obviously a popular area because here we find the rental cars. We can see why – the scenery is magical as we carry on to Landmannalaugar. The carparks are full to overflowing, rows of tour buses are leaving and tents are set up like a refugee camp. But the location is stunning with multi-hued mountains in every direction. We squeeze into the camping area and head along the boardwalk for a soak in the hot river. Just magic. And the dozens of other tourists here obviously agree too! The sun sinking over the mountains is just glorious.

We wake to a yet another misty morning, so instead of heading out for a hike we soak in the hot river which is nearly empty of tourists (they are all hiking). As the mist clears, we head out on our hike. What an amazing area – definitely a must see in Iceland. The colours are stunning and the steam vents steaming. As we head back to the carpark tourists are rolling in by the busload. Definitely time for us to leave.

We continue our drive along the F208, and fortunately we seem to have left  the rental cars behind. They must come In the other way. The scenery keeps on amazing us with its vibrant colours, jagged mountains and lovely rivers which of course we need to cross. Later we turn off onto the F235 to head up a huge black sand canyon. The  scenery is stunning. The black volcanic sand, the vibrant greens of the moss and the blue sky. There is no traffic here. We finally reach the end of the road at Lake Langisjor. The views across to Vatnajokull are amazing. We find our spot to camp and head up the hill for better views of the icecap. Just as well we did because again we wake to a chilly gray morning. It still is lovely driving out with looming black clouds. Then it is back onto the F208 heading south. We plan to turn onto the F233 for more exploring but when we stop at a water crossing we ask the ranger there about the road. She says it would be better not too. The river crossings are very soft and sandy and the roads nearer the icecap are too soft for our heavy truck. Oh well we will simply continue on the F208 until we reach the tarseal main road. We find a camping card campground at Kirkjubaejarklaustur and settle in for the night.

We are off the F roads for a while so now we need to make new plans.  Maybe glaciers…