GLACIERS & LAVA FIELDS

 

Now that we are back in Southern Iceland we are again looking at our maps and have decided to head to Laki National Park tomorrow. Many of the other travelers we have spoken to keep mentioning it so we must go.

Unfortunately, we wake to drizzly rain, so decide to wait it out. While we wait, I scan the map. Maybe we can head along the coast today while it is cloudy inland. I am keen to revisit Diamond Beach beside the Jokulsarlon Lake & Glacier where we camped on our last visit.  Decision made, we head along the main road with hundreds of rental cars. The drive is stunning with moss covered lava fields and glaciers curling down the valleys from the huge Ice cap. We stop again at a few of these glaciers, but this time we share the view with countless others. Later in the day we reach the fabulous Lake Jokulsarlon and see the glacier running into the water and huge icebergs floating down the lake. We drive on down to Diamond Beach and discover that it is now a big paid carpark, so we loop back to the free one up the road and set out on foot. Smaller bergs are trying to float out to sea but are stopped by the incoming tide. Seals are frolicking in the frigid water and boats are out exploring the bergs. We head to Diamond Beach where usually the black sand is littered with glistening ice pinnacles. Sadly, today the ice pinnacles resemble ice cubes! It must be a combination of incoming tide, end of summer with fewer bergs and dare I say it – global warming!

We head back to last night’s campground ready to tackle Laki tomorrow. After rain in the night we are relieved to wake to sunshine. So head off bright and early  straight up the lush green valley towards the F road to Laki passing the gorge and waterfall. We will visit them when we return. The track takes us through moss draped lavas fields, over lots of bumps and through numerous rivers. Much later we stop at the Ranger Station to get the lowdown on the area and what walks we can do. We head off on the easier walk through a volcanic fissure, but when we meet a young couple we ask about the climb up Mt Laki. They assure us it is not slippery, but there are lots of steps. We head off, and boy it is a climb but the magic views are worth it. In one direction we can see the volcanic fissure, lakes and distant icecap and in the other we can see the huge Vatnajokull icecap. Amazing, but we must keep moving as the skies are darkening. On our ascent we even get tiny hail blasting us. Back in GR3 we drive the scenic loop. The views are stunning and there are barely any other cars in sight. Time to head back to our campground, but we manage a stop at the waterfall. So glad we stopped because it is simply stunning. And we had never heard of it! It is raining by the time we reach the gorge. We will visit it tomorrow.

We wake to sunshine and head to Fjadrargljufur gorge. Stunning, but overflowing with tourists. Time to head along the main road to Vik to stock up with groceries. We don’t look at the prices – just buy them. While we are in the area, we can’t resist popping down to the waterfront to look at the sea stacks. Of course, it is a paid carpark and there is an overload of tourists, so we will only go to one! We did explore them all 10 years ago. Later we drive right past 2 big name waterfalls we viewed last time (and I am not sorry to miss the 527 steps at one of them that we did last time!). But we do stop below Eyjafjallajokull icecap to read about the eruption in 2010. The photos are incredible. Finally turn off the busy main road and head to the tiny waterfront town of Stokkseyn where there is a camping card campground. It is such a lovely town we pull out the scooters and head out to explore. The next morning we make use of the free washing machine to wash everything! Sheets for the first time this trip! We leave by midday with all our washing dry and bed remade. But time to move on along the waterfront passing little fishing villages and later windswept cliffs. We take a detour through yet more lava fields and back to our road via another F road. Magic scenery. Our next stop is at the town of Grindavik where there was a massive eruption in 2024 sending lava for miles and an earthquake that ripped the town in half destroying homes. There are still signs of devastation despite the massive rebuilding taking place. There is a row of incredible photos of the event taking centre stage in town. Fortunately, the town is now surrounded by huge barriers to keep it safe. Then we head north along new roads to the Blue Lagoon. There are miles of fresh black lava everywhere. Much later we reach our campground at Sandgeroi – yet another camping card one.

Tomorrow we will reach the big smoke for a drive by…..