FAREWELL ICELAND

 

From our camp in the middle of nowhere we continue our F roads drive with continuous views of the sparkling icecap until we reach the F333 that heads directly to Strokkur. We want to stop and see the geyser. It is a crazy narrow track and fortunately we meet no oncoming traffic. Before we know it, we are in tourist central. It’s a bit jarring to go from absolutely nobody in sight to 100’s of tourists, but they are all here. It is paid parking only, but free entry to the geothermal area. A little overrated, but we watch Stokkur gush crazily a few times. Geyser has practically gone to sleep now. We head off, with all the tourists, to the next attraction – the fabulous Gulfoss. From there on the traffic really thins out as we are now on the north/south F35 gravel road. The weather is perfect and it is an incredible drive. We can still see the looming icecap and when we see a side road that heads towards it, we take it. It’s pretty narrow but it takes us right onto the icecap. An amazing sight and such fun to walk on it.

We will not make the entire drive today so start looking for a spot to camp, but everything is way too exposed. (Remember free camping is not legal here). We try the airstrip but there is really nothing there, but see a sign for Kerlingarfjoll Camping further up the road so head there. If it is expensive we will bite the bullet and pay. The track takes us high up towards the Vatnajokull icecap until suddenly we can see down into a narrow valley and we are stunned to see a big resort and a row of campers. It looks awesome. We settle in and John goes onto the app to pay, but it is fully booked and we cannot pay. Oh well we are not leaving and there is heaps of space. We wander up to the lovely hot pools and enjoy a long soak. All free!

A storm rolls through in the night with rain and strong wind. What a change from yesterday. Everyone is getting out, and we do too. Such a different drive with mist covering the mountains and fierce winds rock and rolling GR3. When we see Hveravellir is just ahead we stop to visit the hot pools. It is nasty sprinting to the pool in our togs, but we have a great soak. John works out how to move the pipes to keep the temp perfect. Now the hardest thing will be to get out! Before we leave, we rug up to explore the geothermal area in spity rain. Lots more driving before we reach the northern coast at Blonuous. A quick drive around before we head to the campground at Skagastrond. It is officially closed, but we drive in and “park” there for the night.

It is still raining in the morning, but we stick to our plan and head around the peninsula. It is too misty to see much, but it clears for about 30 mins, just enough time to walk to a few waterfalls. These ones drop straight into the ocean. Back on the main road we see signs for Grettislaug, another hot pool just down a side road. As it is so wet and nasty we will indulge and enjoy a long soak and chat to other tourists.  Most of the day has now gone so we head further around the coast and stop at the rather lovely town of Siglo for the night. Again, we can’t pay on the app so fingers crossed it will be free! But no, at 8.30pm they come for fees!

After exploring the lovely town, we go back into planning mode. The weather is lovely, so we decide to head inland again to drive a few more F roads. We follow the coast to Akureyi and then head south following a lovely river. Once there are no farms the F821 starts, and boy it is a narrow rough track. We wind our way up and out of the valley and high into the inland volcanic wilderness.  The views across to Hofsjokull are magic. Much later we reach Laungafell (we camped here a few weeks ago) for the night. It is now closed for the season, but we can still camp here and use the hot pool.

Another soak in the morning before we head off. We are going to tackle the famous F910 road that runs beside Vatnajokull all the way to Askja. But first we detour to Nyidalur, the national park headquarters, in the vague hope they have our no plate there (when we were there earlier they had a row displayed outside. Remember we lost ours in the river a few weeks ago), but we find the place locked up and deserted. Oh well it was worth a try. So, we head to the F910 and find the river we crossed last time is down.  John decides to get out and explore. He gets on his gumboots and heads off. And can you believe it he finds our plate washed up on the bank about 500m down the river looking very sad and worn. But hey we have it back!!!

And so, we continue driving very very slowly all day. We are winding through jagged lava fields and sandy riverbeds. The scenery is magic, but we will not make it to the National Park hut today, so we find a wider section of track and pull over for the night. We have seen no one all day. In the morning we continue the drive. More twisting and turning through lava fields. The lava is tall and John is very careful on the tight turns in case the back of the truck rocks into it. On one turn we see a box. It has obviously fallen off a vehicle, so we stop. It won’t fit into our truck, so John just loads the contents into our truck in the hope that we can find the owner.  Later in the day the lava fields finally end, and we drive miles of lovely black sand before reaching the camp, For 1.5 days we have seen nobody - unbelievable in Iceland. The trucks computer shows 4.5hrs driving, 37 litres per 100km, averaging at 11kpm, hard work for John. The camp is officially closed (so free!), but we can still stay. At 11pm the phone beeps and despite the chilly night I venture out. Yes, the Lights are out, but not very bright. It’s way too cold to stay out too long!

Wake to a cold gray morning, so it’s a slow start. A message has come through that our ferry has been changed and we are leaving a day earlier so we will need to get a move on. We wind through numerous F roads (all much easier than the 910) before we finally reach the good road at Modrudalur. There is a row of grass topped houses and a reindeer on the road. Of course we stop. Then back to the main road with strings of cars and buses. On through black desert scenery and stop for the night at the waterfront at Voprafjordur camping ground. This one isn’t free!

As we will be getting on the ferry tomorrow we decide to do chores. The usual washing, cleaning, toilet, water etc. Then a magic drive up over the mountains and down numerous tight hairpins to the coast again. Back on the main road we fill up with diesel before heading to Seydisfjordur for the night. Late morning our ferry pulls in and we join the massive queue to embark. John starts his hunt for the owner of the box and can you believe it he finds him. The very happy Swiss owner takes us to dinner at the fanciest restaurant onboard as a thank you.

We have one night on the ferry….. and then we are off to explore the Faroe Islands.