BAJA PHOTOS

The lovely beach at Los Barrilles

Camping on the beach at National Park Cabo Pulmo

Our lovely snorkling beach - Los Arbolitos

Walking to Las Sirentos (Mermaid Beach)- along from Los Arbolitos

End of the seal - start of the dirt

Gorgeous coastline on the Sea of Cortez

Lands End

Whales Tail at La Paz

Sunset at Puerto San Carlos

GR2 & a whale

One of the beaches at Bahia Concepcion

Puerto Escondido

Beach camping at Playa Juncalito

Playa Escondido

Sunset at Playa Escondido

The old mine works at Santa Rosalia

The mission church at San Ignacio

Mission Church - San Ignacio

Camping beside the marshes at Guerrles Negra

The next morning - the tide has come in

Very cute - & very fast

Heading into Bahia de Los Angeles

From our camp spot

El Gringos Beach - Bahia de los Angeles

My favorite trees!!

GR2 in Dr Suess land

Offroad at Bahia San Quentin

On into wine country

Our last Boondock - near the seals

These guys were very vocal

Just after here the road was washed out - so we had to back track

Goodbye Mexico!!!

BOONDOCKING ON THE BAJA

We arrive at the port near La Paz bright & early. Don’t see too much as we are down in the hull. Finally out & it is another 2 hours before we leave. There is a military check & each vehicle is inspected. (In fact we have quite a few military checks on the peninsula. They appear to be only checking vehicles going north – although it really wouldn’t be too hard to hide anything! We will see what the Mexican/USA border is like!!)

Eventually we are free & head through the lovely town of La Paz – stopping at one of the huge supermarkets to stock up. Then off to the beach to start boondocking (the American name for free camping). We head south to Los Barrilies, over some large mountains and are tempted to stay right on the beach as it is such a pretty place & there are so many friendly Americans there. But after lunch & a swim, we continue south, leaving the tarseal behind us, eventually stopping for the night at the northern most beach of Cabo Pulmo National Park. On the beach there are turtle nests safely screened from all the quads that explore the beaches & dry river beds.

After a lovely peaceful night we continue exploring. There are so many magic spots, perfect to boondock. We could stop every few kilometers. We pull into the little township at Cabo Pulmo to find out about snorkeling. There are trips out in boats, but we hear that we can snorkel right off the beach at Playa los Arbolitos. So after a yummy lunch of tacos we head on to the beach. We can’t camp right on the beach, but not too far away, & the snorkeling is amazing. Here we meet 2 American guys – Scott & Richard. After a lot of chatting Richard offers us a spot at his home to leave GR2 when we go home. How awesome is that. He lives just north of San Diego – so it will be perfect.

After spending the next morning snorkeling – the fish are amazing there are so many varieties & John even sees a turtle– – before heading south. The road deteriorates considerably, but the beaches are gorgeous. We finally reach San Jose del Cabo & follow the double laned motorway past all the hotels to the party town of Cabo San Lucas . It is getting late, but I want to go out on a panga to see the arch at Lands End. The beach is one big party & there are pangas/ water taxis lined up along the beach. After negotiating a price we are off. It is a lovely sunset ride out past the beaches & arch to the Pacific Ocean. But no time to linger – it is Saturday night & we want to get out of the city & find a peaceful spot to boondock.

At dusk we find a wide sandy beach – the only noise the last few quads heading in before its dark, & then a few fishermen heading out the next morning. We are now heading north, just inland from the Pacific coast. There is amazing desert scenery & glimpses of the ocean. Eventually we are back in La Paz getting diesel & bread (cakes as well of course), before heading further north to the whale watching/ fishing  town of Puerto San Carlos. There are no whales at this time of year (sadly!) & the town is pretty scruffy, so we find a spot well away from town to tuck ourselves in for the night. It is getting chillier as we head north so we are not outside for long.

Time again to head across the peninsula to the Sea of Cortez. This time to some lovely bays in the Bahia Concepcion. We stop at Playa Luigi & then at Playa Juncalito for the night. The wind has picked up & it is getting chilly. Winter will be here soon. The next day we explore more amazing beaches with lots of campgrounds. We end up stopping after only 140km because we cannot resist the postcard perfect bay at Playa Escondito. We nearly have the place to ourselves because the access road is 4x4 only.  

 We spend a lovely evening with Ben & Kylie from Montana, sitting beside a roaring fire. The next day we are sad to pull ourselves away. So much more to see & experience. Some little towns with lovely old mission churches, & of course more beaches. Some fishing villages & others covered with American RV’s, cottages, or fancy resorts. We stop for a bit longer at Santa Rosalia to walk past the quaint wooden houses, peek into Eiffel’s cast iron church (yes the same Eiffel of the tower in Paris) & stare at the ruins of a massive mine building. They are still currently mining copper in a huge open cast mine. Then we head inland to San Ignacio – a tiny oasis in the middle of the desert, with yet another lovely Mission church. But it is too early to stop, so we continue across the peninsula to Guerreles Negro with its huge salt fields. It is also home to yet more whale watching in the right season. We head out to the old lighthouse, but on finding a few poor huts in residence, move out to a spot in the marshy area. Yet another gorgeous sunset & sunrise over the water. I pop out to take photos the next morning & find us surrounded by water. The tide has risen – fortunately we are not stuck.

Again we cross the peninsula- this time toward Bahia de Los Angeles. We stop for Wifi & amazingly meet an Aussie lady who lives here half of each year, & here find out about a deer sanctuary up the road. We stop to get a free tour of these lovely animals that have been saved from extinction.  These guys can run up to 95kmph. Amazing! Later in the day when stopped for lunch at a surf beach we meet 3 Aussie guys, in an American van, chasing the waves. Aussies are everywhere! Then more gorgeous driving through some amazing desert scenery. We have decided that Dr Seuss came here before he illustrated his books. The Boojum Trees just make you want to laugh, they are so amazing. But beware, everything here is incredibly prickly. Yet another magic beach, fire, sunset & sunrise when we finally reach Bahia de Los Angeles.

After exploring the area we head back inland & then north. The desert is not at all boring, but constantly changing. I particularly love the huge boulders surrounded by weird plants. We stop to look at cave paintings – I agree with John – boring! & detour off the road to see an old Onyx mine. Again rather unexciting. We could stay & camp, but decide to push on. Shall we head to a beach to boondock or go to a camping ground in town. The campground at El Rosario wins out as it has Wifi & we need to pay some pesky bills. Bonus is Skype & yummy fish tacos for dinner. (That was John, I had potato ones!)

We are out of the desert & now into the cropped area with 1,000’s of greenhouses – more than we have ever seen before, & unfortunately civilization (albeit scruffy civilization) Boondocking is going to get harder to find, & it is the weekend, making it even harder.

We take a detour to Bahia San Quintin & discover some sandy tracks to the coast, surrounded by little volcanoes – a perfect place for a quad. Back on the main road there is more traffic & greenhouses. We opt to explore the coastal route along some very suss tracks, the coast here is rugged with lots of cliffs. There are locals collecting the smooth rocks by the sackfull – we assume they are sent to garden centres all over the States. Eventually we end up past the town of Erendira, on a quiet cliff top.

Did I say quiet – you could hear the seals barking over the wind. The next morning we spot them out on a rock. We continue following our coastal route, meeting 3 Israelis. They ask if the road continues, & we say we hope so! We meet them again coming towards us – they say the road has big cracks & we can’t go any further. Of course we think we can, but sadly we come to total washout. We have to back track & return to the main road. It is Sunday night & tomorrow we want to get some jobs done on GR2 in Ensenada, so we opt for the security of a camp ground, after exploring the peninsula & braving the crowds at La Bufadora (the blowhole)

It only takes a day to get GR2 all sorted. First a clean as she really is filthy, then on to a mechanic for a grease & oil change (filters the whole works, then to a spring guy & finally an auto electrician for the brake lights. It is dark by the time we return to the same campground. The next morning we decide to brave the frontier. First we head through Ensenada (stopping at Walmart to shop) & then follow the coast north only stopping for one of the famous lobster lunches at Puerto Nuevo. Then on to the more serious business of border crossing. We had planned to go to Tecate to cross, but missed our turning (by stopping for a lobster lunch) & so ended up in Tijuana. We didn’t want to cross the busiest border in the world, so we finally found the Atay crossing & sat in a long queue, only to discover that we were in the wrong queue! They let us through anyway. Then onto vehicle inspection – had our avocado taken from us & ate our last mandarin before it was taken! Then had to wait for our visas. A change of shift, lots of staff chatting to each other, & a girl being taken away in handcuffs made it a long wait. Finally we are through & we set the GPS onto the nearest Walmart where we intend to sleep for the night.

It is cold & drizzly; making it fell as if our holiday is over. The next few days are spend catching up with Emma, Drew & Georgia, getting maps, checking out vehicle insurance, shopping, &  visiting some RV places. Before we know it GR2 is tucked up at Richard & Debbras’s home & we are on the train to Los Angeles & then the long 15 hour flight home.

We have loved the beaches & wilderness areas of the Baja & will be back. Who would like to join us?

Adios Amigos until next year.

 

 

 

COPPER CANYON PHOTOS

Some of the locals in the Copper Canyon area

Roadworks heading into Batopilas - an abrupt stop

The new road into the canyon at Batopilas looks great

Pity the road is closed - they are dynamiting the cliff & pushing the rocks down to the valley (and road) below

The lovely canyon on our way to Creel

And the road to Creel

The river we camped beside (before Creel)

Lunch is cooking - YUM!!

Copper Canyon - AMAZING!!

The road - SCARY!!

Lower into the canyon

Camping right down in the canyon on the river bed

Wow! On our way back out

More obstacles on our way

The massive gold & silver mine - we camped very close to it

On our way to  Chinipas

Following a ute across the river at Chinipas

Another amazing mountain drive

More local scenery

COPPER CANYON LIVES UP TO OUR EXPECTATIONS

Today was a bright & early start to the Copper Canyon- Barranca del Cobre.  A few weeks ago we met an English couple in a vehicle similar to ours who drove a big loop from Creel, along the edge of the canyon, then down to Urique, followed the river, crossed through the river because the bridge was down, & then drove up through Batopilas & up out of the canyon. It was a very long slow trip, but what we would like to do in reverse and then head out of the canyon by the waterfall. Then a few weeks later we met an Aussie guy on a motorbike. He too drove the canyon, but told us that there were roadwork’s on the road to Batopilas, and that the road was only open at night. We will just have to wing it

Already we have changed routes as we have seen signs pointing down a different road. A good call as the road surface is great & scenery lovely. The nearer the mountains we get, the cottages change to log cabins. There are numerous villages, & the ladies are bright in their long flowing skirts.

Eventually we reach the turn off to Batopilas. We are surprised by how good the road has been so far & expect it to change as we turn off, but it doesn’t. Apart from corners being worn, it is a lovely, obviously fairly new road with no traffic. And of course the canyon we are descending into is quite spectacular.  But all good things come to an end. In this case an abrupt end as there are huge piles of rocks covering the road, & a huge bulldozer is pushing them over the cliff. Down below us we can see what will be an amazing road. When we show our map to the guys in the other waiting vehicle they let us know that when the digger finishes we can drive down to the lookout, but after that the road is closed. So we turn back to start Plan 2, to head back up the mountain & continue onto Creel – a gorgeous drive through some amazing canyons. (A real bonus as we would have missed this road on Plan 1). We are planning to camp beside the lake, but when we see a lovely creek we stop there for a very cold but peaceful night.

The next morning we continue on to the lake, & then the township of Creel where lots of tourists (who come on the Ferrocarril Chihuahua Pacifico) overnight. Not a lot here, so we continue on along the rim of the canyon (more great sealed road) stopping at the lookout. Here of course there are local ladies selling their crafts & more importantly their food. We stop for some very yummy gorditas before continuing our scenic tour. Eventually our magic road deteriorates into road works & the going gets a lot slower. Finally we reach the turnoff that heads towards the town of Urique right in the depth of the canyon. Miles & miles of windy dirt road, but no real dramas until suddenly we are out on the lip of the canyon & can see over 1.8km straight down to the river below and our narrow road cut into the rock face.  A real edge of the seat drive for the next 15km (taking one & a half hours!) Phew! I am extremely relieved to be down. We pass through the town (interestingly the main street is the airstrip) & on to the river to find a spot for the night. In this isolated small town there are lots of new American fancy 4wd pickup trucks. Are these the guys in the drug business?

 Following the river we stop at yet more roadwork’s – more fallen rock being cleared away & an American guy stops – he checks about the road for us & we discover that we will not be able to get to Batopilas. We find a lovely spot in the river bed & work out our route Plan 3. We spread out our maps & remember that despite our maps showing no road directly west, that in fact there were road signs pointing to towns going west, so we decide “How bad can it be!!!” Plan 3: west to Alamos.

 After sitting in the river bed just drinking in the views for a while we decide it is time to tackle the drive up out of the canyon. John did suggest I could walk if I find it too scary, but I think I will risk it. Up, up, up we go….. Retrace our steps until we see our road sign (now we have no GPS & gaps on our paper maps)…should be interesting! Bad road makes the going slow. We finally reach Temoris & check at the petrol station re the next town. Yes we are on track. A few signposts would help! Yay, next intersection there is a sign & we follow it – the road is getting worse. At town we check again NO, NO – go back. Bother, at least we hadn’t gone far. Back we go & head onto Palmarejo as instructed. By now it is getting late & I am on a lookout for a campspot. Eventually I spy massive carparks beside what looks like a mine. As we get closer we see that it is a massive open cast mine.  Finally I see a carpark with a row of utes – in we drive & I lean out & ask. Yes we can park overnight.  We discover that we have landed at the Coeur gold & silver mine that has been operating for 7 years & employs 900 people. Unfortunately all the equipment comes in on the train, so there isn’t a good road out. One of the guys draws out a mud map with directions to Alamos. We discover the next day what a blessing this is. But he did warn us it was a “hard” road that takes him 6 hours in his ute! So maybe 8 hours for us.

Off we head bright & early, with our map in hand. There is another mountain range to cross before we descend into the town of Chinipas. Here we have to locate the church (always an easy task because of the tall spires) & cross the river. Apparently we won’t fit on the bridge. There is a defined track on either side of the large river, so as I am wearing shorts I get the job of walking across. First section fine, not quite up to me knees & flowing fairly fast. John crosses. Second part much deeper & stronger. I come back to leave the camera in GR2 – it is slippery & the currents strong. Fortunately a ute arrives & ploughs straight through – so we follow- saves me getting my shorts wet as indeed it is quite deep.

Mud map out again – because we wouldn’t go this way by choice as it is merely a goat track….mile after rough mile winding up a massive mountain slowly climbing over rocks. (Stewart you would be proud of us). Hours later we reach the top, only to start coming back down. What an amazing drive. Much harder than going into the canyon. Our mud map is amazingly accurate (Thanks so much to the safety guys at the mine) and many, many hours later we finally reach tarseal & Alamos. Tonight we find a campground. We plan to eat out, do washing & use their Wifi. Again we spend time with our maps. Have we got enough time left to explore the Baja Peninsula?  Eventually we decide “Let’s do it” & drive to the ferry port at Topolobampo just past Los Mochis. We arrive as it is getting dark, eventually getting tickets. We sail at midnight. Instead of heading upstairs for dinner & an upright seat, we sneak into GR2 for a good night’s sleep, albeit a bit stuffy. In the morning we arrive in La Paz, Baja California.

Adios Amigos