We wake to rain,
lots and lots of rain, and a few unexpected leaks. We continue following the
coast & the streets are busy. Lots of queues & holdups. Then we
discover why. Roads are flooded &
traffic has slowed right up. We finally find the main road where traffic is at
a standstill, so we move over to the slip road. This proves to be a good move
as the main road is completely flooded & little cars cannot get through,
& all the trucks behind them are just queued up. No police in sight! Chaos
reigns. GR2 can just surge through all the water.
Continuing on,
sadly in the rain, we pass through the city of Vitoria. From the bridge it
looks like Rio with a huge inlet & lots of granite boulders. Our road then
returns us inland past lots of coffee, rubber & palm plantations. Then as
it flattens out, lots of sugarcane. It still keeps trying to rain, so it seems
a good chance to get some work done on GR2. We stop at an Iveco dealership where
they adjust the brakes, install an extra diesel filter and an extra fuel pump.
It was a good choice of workshop as they did all the labour for free. The next
day we decide to get lots of miles done, but it is not to be. GR2 starts
throwing up faults & eventually John has to tilt the cab & sort out the
problem, helped by a local from the coffee plantation we stop beside. The
original diesel filter was blocked and needed replacing, lucky we always carry
a spare. Finally it is all clear, but we are tired of all the trucks so detour
onto the Costa de Coco (Coconut Coast). We think this is a great move as the
road is good, scenery lush & tropical and there are no trucks. Until we
find potholes big enough to swallow cars. As we near the coast it is getting
dark so we pull over to the first Praia (beach) that we can find. In the
morning we discover a lovely long stretch of white sand & lots of coconuts.
Pity about the rain & rubbish.
We continue our
coastal drive past more gorgeous beaches (albeit wet) including my favorite:
Praia Millionarios with all its shanties. Then head through the grotty city of
Ilheus (packed with people & cars) and on to the lovely beach resort town
of Itacare as recommended by a 4x4 guy we met. We had planned to have lunch at
one of the beachside restaurants, but the prices are too much to swallow, so we
settle on drinks. It doesn’t really matter as everyone passing selling food
gives us some to try. There are too many
pousadas here to camp so we continue on towards Salvador, finally finding a
lovely beachside spot at Praia Guaibim.
As we continue our
coastal route we see signs to Salvador via “ferry boat”. What a bonus! This
will save us returning to the main road. We roll up to the ferry and before
long we are on our way to Salvador over the emerald green water. Lovely. There
is a huge cruise ship in port, so when we arrive there are huge groups
everywhere. Bummer! We park in the lower city beside the water and find the
elevator that takes us up to the upper city at the tiny price of 15c each. What
a lovely place with lots of buildings renovated & many under way. We do all
the tourist stuff – visit the cathedral, walk through the main squares, watch
the Capoeira dancers, look at the souvenirs, listen to the drummers (who are
really good) & go to a Bahian buffet lunch. Finally we head out of town. We
miss our turning for the motorway & our GPS detours us through the “burbs”
– not a place we would want to stop and visit at all. At least the rain has
finally stopped.
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